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Stand & Simmer Stove

PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:43 am
by Freeport
To make the stove stand designed by Jim Wood, I used a remnant of an old asbestos shingle. Obviously with this, you don’t need to be concerned with it burning. I glued the super-cat stove to the stand using JB Weld. It works great. The weld can sustain up to 600 degrees of heat with losing its adhesion. My super cat stove has ten ¼ inch holes punched out with a paper punch. For the pot stand feet and pot stability I used three #10 threaded rods that were cut from a one ft. piece purchased at Home Depot for $1.37. Also needed are three #10 nuts @ $.98 and three #10 wing nuts @ $.98 that can also be found at Home Depot. My pot is the small Antigravity pot. To drill the holes in the proper position the pot is placed on the bottom of the stand with the bottom of the pot against the stand and the stand is marked for a hole on each of the legs at the perimeter of the pot. Drill a hole in each leg the diameter of the threaded rod. The threaded rod is cut to a length that will extend about 1½ inches higher than the bottom of the pot when it is sitting on the stove. The nuts are used as a stop for inserting into the stand while the wing nuts are tightened from below leaving about ½-1” for feet.

The windscreen sits on the edge of the stand legs just outside the threaded rods. Since the stand is about ½ inch higher than the surface below, there is no problem with the stove getting sufficient oxygen. The pot is stable with no fear of tipping or sliding. The rods can be inserted or removed in less than a minute and the entire package is very condensed and packs easily.

I also used the larger cat food can (5.5 oz) to make a simmer stove. Peel off the top, remove the contents and cut a hole in the center of the bottom the diameter of a nickel. I used the edge of a sharp chisel the make the perforation and then pushed it out. No problem but be sure to wear gloves to protect your hands. Around the hole punch eight small holes (1/8”) around the small inner circle. Using this device and ½ oz of denatured alcohol, I was able to cap and enclose the super-cat stove and simmer for 40 minutes and 11 seconds. I was able to bake biscuits using my pot as an oven. I took the metal top from a large jar and placed it top side up on the bottom of the Antigravity pot. Since the pot needs to be about an inch higher than the stove, I used my windscreen as the pot support. My windscreen is made from metal flashing and I punched four holes in it at the proper height and inserted 2 aluminum baked potato nails as pot supports. You can also buy a 2 ft. aluminum rod at Home Depot ($2.09) that can be trimmed to the proper length. For simmering you don’t need the threaded rods since the windscreen stabilizes the pot. They can be left on since they are below the bottom of the pot when simmering. It all worked great and the baking was a success after about 30 minutes with Bisquick Biscuit Mix. In short, a light, reliable, and stable stove for boiling, simmering and baking. Pictures are available if anyone wishes to see. Thanks Jim for your ideas.



PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:06 pm
by Freeport
I modified the stove stand by using a piece of aluminum roof flashing cut to the same pattern. It was lighter and more flexible in that I was able to accomodate a larger diameter pot when necessary using the same bolt placement. I also wound several turns of fiberglass wick on the lower outside of the stove for priming. The stove was J.B Welded to a top from a 1 qt. size paint can which in turn was J.B. Welded to the base. The entire structure is extremely light and the paint can priming base and fiberglass wick seem to greatly enhance the time it takes for the stove to pressurize.